Wave breaking and turbulence at a tidal inlet

Abstract

Field measurements collected with surface drifters at New River Inlet (NC, USA) are used to characterize wave breaking and turbulence in the presence of currents. Shoreward wave evolution is affected by currents, and breaking is observed in deeper water with opposing currents (ebb tides) relative to the following currents (flood tides). Wave dissipation models are evaluated with observed cross‐shore gradients in wave energy flux. Wave dissipation models that include the effects of currents are better correlated with the observations than the depth‐only models. Turbulent dissipation rates measured in the breaking regions are used to evaluate two existing scaling models for the vertical structure and magnitude of turbulent dissipation relative to wave dissipation. Although both describe the rapid decay of turbulence beneath the surface, exponential vertical scaling by water depth is superior to power law vertical scaling by wave height.

Document Details

Document Type
Pub Defense Publication
Publication Date
Feb 01, 2015
Source ID
10.1002/2014jc010025

Entities

People

  • Jim Thomson
  • Seth Zippel

Organizations

  • Office of Naval Research
  • University of Washington

Tags

Fields of Study

  • Physics

Readers

  • Coastal Oceanography