WAVE RUN-UP ON BEACHES

Abstract

The motion of water on a uniformly sloping beach, just after a bore reaches the shore, is studied. The shllow-water equations are used to fomulate a singular hyperbolic problem, which is solved by the help of RIEMANN'S Method and of the trutural theory of quasilinear hyperbolic equations developed in gas dynmics. The shore line is found to advance suddenly with non-zero velocity and then to move up and down the beach with constant, negative acceleration. The solution s shown to contain limit lines indiating a rather unexpeted, secondary bore in the back-wsh. (Author)

Document Details

Document Type
Technical Report
Publication Date
Oct 01, 1962
Accession Number
AD0287627

Entities

People

  • M.c. Shen
  • R.e. Meyer

Organizations

  • Brown University

Tags

DTIC Thesaurus Topics

  • Equations
  • Motion
  • Physical Properties

Fields of Study

  • Mathematics

Readers

  • Atmospheric Science / Meteorology, specifically Wind Wave Turbulence.
  • Plasma Physics / Magnetohydrodynamics
  • Structural Dynamics.