LONG SURF

Abstract

A digest of a mathematical investigation on surf due to long swell is offered to present the assumptions and conclusions in a form usable by the experimental physicist. The results so far obtained are mainly qualitative but quite detailed in some respects, and radically different from the results of earlier analyses. Some new observational material is also presented. It appears that a simple, non-linear model is capable of describing the essence of the whole phenomenon - breaker formation, breaker collapse, run-up and back-wash - for a quite representative type of surf.

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Document Details

Document Type
Technical Report
Publication Date
Mar 01, 1963
Accession Number
AD0401877

Entities

People

  • D. V. Ho
  • M. C. Shen
  • R. E. Meyer

Organizations

  • Brown University

Tags

Communities of Interest

  • Energy and Power Technologies

DTIC Thesaurus Topics

  • Applied Mathematics
  • Beaches
  • Energy
  • Equations
  • Gas Dynamics
  • Intervals
  • Kinetic Energy
  • Mathematical Models
  • Mathematics
  • Military Research
  • Models
  • New York
  • Shores
  • Time Intervals
  • Water Waves
  • Wave Propagation
  • Waves

Fields of Study

  • Mathematics
  • Physics

Readers

  • Coastal Oceanography
  • Theoretical Analysis.