WATER WAVES AT THE SHORELINE.

Abstract

The nonlinear equations of two-dimensional wave motion on a shallow beach are used to study motions starting from rest and developing so that the surface elevation, at a fixed distance from the initial shore position, approaches rapidly an approximately simple-harmonic function of time. The Laplace transform is applied to a related problem and is inverted to obtain the solution of the physical problem when the water motion is bore-free. It is shown, moreover, that the solution does represent a bore-free motion for sufficiently small, non-zero amplitude, except at a set of resonant frequencies. (Author)

Document Details

Document Type
Technical Report
Publication Date
Jul 15, 1965
Accession Number
AD0478688

Entities

People

  • Albion D. Taylor

Organizations

  • University of Wisconsin Madison Department of Mathematics

Tags

DTIC Thesaurus Topics

  • Amplitude
  • Doppler Effect
  • Elevation
  • Equations
  • Frequency
  • Frequency Shift
  • Mathematics
  • Resonant Frequency
  • Two Dimensional
  • Water Waves
  • Waves

Fields of Study

  • Mathematics

Readers

  • Atmospheric Science / Meteorology, specifically Wind Wave Turbulence.
  • Coastal Oceanography
  • Control Systems Engineering.