SOME THREE-DIMENSIONAL EFFECTS IN SURF.

Abstract

Asymptotic equations are presented of surf on shallow beaches with a geometry causing longshore variations in the water motion. In general, such surf is found to be governed by the three-dimensional, nonlinear shallow-water equations. However, when the seabed profile parallel to shore is shallower than the profile normal to shore, the asymptotic equations are shown to differ only in minor respects from those of two-dimensional surf. Such 'weakly three-dimensional' surf can be analysed directly in terms of the results of the two-dimensional theory. (Author)

Document Details

Document Type
Technical Report
Publication Date
Aug 01, 1964
Accession Number
AD0605662

Entities

People

  • R. B. Turner
  • R. E. Meyer

Organizations

  • Brown University

Tags

DTIC Thesaurus Topics

  • Equations
  • Geometry
  • Mathematics
  • Physical Properties
  • Plane Geometry
  • Shallow Water
  • Sizes (Dimensions)
  • Three Dimensional
  • Two Dimensional
  • Water

Readers

  • Coastal Oceanography
  • Control Systems Engineering.