MODIFICATION OF WAVE SPECTRA ON THE CONTINENTAL SHELF AND IN THE SURF ZONE.

Abstract

A study was made to increase the state of the art on wave forecasting over the continental shelf, in shallow water, and in the surf zone. The study includes investigations of certain dynamic actions such as breaking waves and currents which affect the rate of littoral drift; storm surge and flooding, which result in an increase in total water depth, thereby permitting larger breaking waves to occur closer to the shoreline. Theory, field data, and analytical methods are required for the successful completion of the study. (Author)

Document Details

Document Type
Technical Report
Publication Date
Oct 01, 1966
Accession Number
AD0641849

Entities

People

  • Bernard Le Mehaute
  • Charles L. Bretschneider

Tags

DTIC Thesaurus Topics

  • Biological Phenomena
  • Continental Shelves
  • Delphi Method
  • Ecological And Environmental Phenomena
  • Ecological And Environmental Processes
  • Floods
  • Littoral Drift
  • Meteorological Phenomena
  • Sea Level Rise
  • Shallow Water
  • Spectra
  • Storm Surges
  • Water

Readers

  • Atmospheric Science / Meteorology, specifically Wind Wave Turbulence.
  • Coastal and Marine Engineering/Sediment Transport/Hydraulic Engineering
  • Polar and Arctic Studies