AN INVESTIGATION OF THE DEFORMATION AND BREAKING OF SOLITARY WAVES.

Abstract

It is proposed that solitary waves can be used as the initial wave shape to simulate the shoaling, breaking and run-up of large, long waves on a beach. Experiments were conducted with solitary waves to determine criteria for wave growth, celerity, breaking height and run-up on various beach slopes. In addition, limited investigations were made of reflected bores, effects of variations in the bottom profile, and the effect of multiple slopes, i.e., one slope followed by a second, higher slope, on the breaking and run-up of solitary waves. Further considerations are given to the method of characteristics as a means of analyzing shoaling waves. A qualitative analysis is presented of the effect of vertical acceleration terms on the solution. A comparison is made with other analytical solutions for shoaling waves. The experimental results are tabulated and plotted comparisons of the experimental results and the various analytical methods for shoaling waves are presented. (Author)

Document Details

Document Type
Technical Report
Publication Date
Dec 01, 1967
Accession Number
AD0664249

Entities

People

  • Frederick E. Camfield
  • Robert Lynnwood Street

Organizations

  • Stanford University

Tags

DTIC Thesaurus Topics

  • Method Of Characteristics
  • Solitons
  • Waves

Readers

  • Atmospheric Science / Meteorology, specifically Wind Wave Turbulence.