PROBABILITIES OF WAVE CHARACTERISTICS IN THE SURF ZONE.
Abstract
Utilizing the hydrodynamic relationships for shoaling and refraction of waves approaching a shoreline over parallel bottom contours, a number of probability distributions for breaking wave characteristics are derived in terms of assumed deep water probability densities of wave heights, wave lengths and angles of approach. Some probability densities for wave heights at specific locations in the surf zone are computed for a Rayleigh distribution in deep water. The probability computations are used to derive the expectation of energy flux at various locations in the surf zone. A further application to determine longshore current expectation is proposed. (Author)
Document Details
- Document Type
- Technical Report
- Publication Date
- Sep 01, 1969
- Accession Number
- AD0696140
Entities
People
- J. Ian Collins
- Wayne Wier