DISPERSIVE LONG WAVES OF FINITE AMPLITUDE OVER AN UNEVEN BOTTOM.
Abstract
Approximate equations for long waves are derived under assumptions similar to those of Boussinesg and Korteweg and deVries. Numerical studies are performed using the method of characteristics. Four cases are investigated (1) solitary wave on a beach, (2) solitary wave on a shelf, (3) periodic waves generated in a wave tank of constant depth, (4) periodic wave on a shelf. It is discovered that complicated disintegration and evolution appear due to combined effects of nonlinearity and dispersion. Experimental evidence is presented. (Author)
Document Details
- Document Type
- Technical Report
- Publication Date
- Nov 01, 1969
- Accession Number
- AD0700301
Entities
People
- Chiang C. Mei
- Ole Secher Madsen
Organizations
- Massachusetts Institute of Technology