Longshore Currents and Wave Statistics in the Surf Zone.

Abstract

The report investigates some of the physical aspects of the surf zone with random seas. The statistics of wave height distributions are investigated for the surf zone over gentle sloping beaches. Longshore currents and wave set-up due to random seas are computed and compared with results for periodic waves. The mathematical stability of steady longshore currents on plane beaches is investigated and it is found that such solutions are unstable. (Author)

Document Details

Document Type
Technical Report
Publication Date
Feb 01, 1972
Accession Number
AD0744228

Entities

People

  • J. Ian Collins

Tags

Communities of Interest

  • Air Platforms

DTIC Thesaurus Topics

  • Computing-Related Activities
  • Data Science
  • Information Science
  • Statistics

Fields of Study

  • Mathematics

Readers

  • Coastal and Marine Engineering/Sediment Transport/Hydraulic Engineering
  • Fluid Dynamics.
  • Statistical inference.