Kinematics of Water Particle Motion within the Surf Zone.

Abstract

The objective of this research was to make preliminary studies on the kinematics of the water particle motion within the surf zone and within breaking waves. Simultaneous measurements were made of the instantaneous sea surface elevation and of horizontal and vertical particle velocities at different elevations in the same column of water in the surf zone, and of the offshore sea surface elevation. The probability density functions and spectra of the wave and particle velocity measurements were determined.

Document Details

Document Type
Technical Report
Publication Date
Sep 01, 1972
Accession Number
AD0756523

Entities

People

  • Rafael Steer

Organizations

  • Naval Postgraduate School

Tags

DTIC Thesaurus Topics

  • Data Science
  • Elevation
  • Information Science
  • Kinematics
  • Mathematics
  • Measurement
  • Offshore
  • Particles
  • Probability
  • Probability Density Functions
  • Random Variables
  • Regions
  • Spectra

Fields of Study

  • Environmental science

Readers

  • Coastal Oceanography