On Small Scale Breaking Waves.
Abstract
It is shown that the surface wind drift in the ocean substantially reduces the maximum wave height and wave orbital velocity that can be attained before breaking. Incipient breaking is characterized by the occurrence of stagnation points at wave crests, but not by discontinuities in slope. After breaking, there is in the mean flow a stagnation point relative to the wave profile near the crest of the broken wave, on one side of which the water tumbles forward and behind which it recedes more smoothly to the rear. Flow visualization studies indicate the general extent of the wake behind the breaking region; it is shown to be turbulent but momentumless. (Author)
Document Details
- Document Type
- Technical Report
- Publication Date
- Jul 01, 1973
- Accession Number
- AD0764295
Entities
People
- M. L. Banner
- O. M. Phillips
Organizations
- Johns Hopkins University