The Kinematics of Water Particle Velocities of Breaking Waves Within the Surf Zone.
Abstract
Simultaneous measurements of waves, and vertical and horizontal water particle velocities were made at the breaker-line within the surf zone using a capacitance type penetrating wave staff, a pressure wave gauge, and an electromagnetic current meter. Wave measurements were also made at seaward and shoreward locations. The wave energy-density spectral components were converted to velocity spectral components using linear wave theory. These computed values compared well qualitatively with the measured velocity spectra. Quantitatively, the results showed that linear theory underpredicted wave-induced horizontal velocity spectral components by about 50 percent at the frequency of peak energy. The coherence values between waves and horizontal velocity were high, ranging above 0.75. (Modified author abstract)
Document Details
- Document Type
- Technical Report
- Publication Date
- Sep 01, 1973
- Accession Number
- AD0769423
Entities
People
- David Paul Richardson
Organizations
- Naval Postgraduate School