Laboratory Investigation of Wave Breaking. Part 2. Deep Water Waves
Abstract
This study represents the first known attempt to examine in some detail the flow dynamics of the terminal growth and breaking of periodic surface waves in deep water, under controlled and reproducible laboratory conditions. This work was considered a necessary preliminary to future studies of storm wave breaking, a phenomenon of considerable engineering importance that has received little scientific attention. In the present study, a tape-controlled servo- paddle system produced single-frequency, deep water wave trains, which were laterally converged to the breaking point within a tapered channel. Using high- response elevation and velocity sensors, profiles and internal velocity fields of growing waves were determined as functions of time and distance before and after breaking.
Document Details
- Document Type
- Technical Report
- Publication Date
- Jun 01, 1975
- Accession Number
- ADA013336
Entities
People
- S. E. Pazan
- W. G. Van Dorn
Organizations
- Scripps Institution of Oceanography