A Method for Calculating Wave Packet Trajectories and Wave Heights. Part II.
Abstract
In Part I a method for calculating wave packet trajectories and wave heights is based on the assumption that the water depth contours are locally parallel in the vicinity of each ray point. This method is extended in order to predict the modification to surface gravity water waves in shoaling water when the water depth contours are not parallel. The calculations are greatly simplified by choosing a coordinate system at each ray point in which one axis is aligned parallel with the direction of the gradient of the water depth. Example printouts and plots are presented to illustrate the wave prediction method. It is discovered that when waves initially approach sinuous water depth contours symmetrically with respect to the beach there can be more energy in the bays than at the headlands. (Author)
Document Details
- Document Type
- Technical Report
- Publication Date
- Nov 01, 1978
- Accession Number
- ADA064078
Entities
People
- J. Ernest Breeding Jr.
Organizations
- Florida State University