Laboratory Drift-Velocity Distribution at Wave Breaking Point with Some Implications to Sediment Transport Processes.

Abstract

Experiments were conducted in the laboratory to determine the drift velocity (mass transport velocity) at the breaking point on a beach with a slope of 1 to 15. Breaker types ranging from spilling to plunging were tested. It was found that, irrespective of breaker types, the drift velocity is onshore near the surface and close to the bottom; in the main flow column, the drift velocity is always offshore. The vertical distribution of the drift velocity in the main water column is more uniform than that in the offshore region. The influence of drift velocity on the sediment transport and beach profile changes is discussed. (Author)

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Document Details

Document Type
Technical Report
Publication Date
May 01, 1980
Accession Number
ADA092791

Entities

People

  • David Y. Yang
  • Hsiang Wang
  • Tsuguo Sunamura

Organizations

  • University of Delaware

Tags

Communities of Interest

  • Air Platforms

DTIC Thesaurus Topics

  • Boundary Layer
  • Data Analysis
  • Engineering
  • Films
  • Layers
  • Materials
  • Measurement
  • Offshore
  • Particles
  • Regions
  • Sedimentation
  • Sediments
  • Trajectories
  • Transportation
  • Water
  • Water Waves
  • Wave Propagation

Fields of Study

  • Environmental science

Readers

  • Coastal Oceanography
  • Fluid Dynamics.