Recent Trends of Coastal Processes Research in Japan.
Abstract
Coastal processes are the physical, mechanical, or bio-chemical processes occurring in a coastal zone, which, therefore, have aroused the interest of coastal engineers, geomorphologists, geologists, physicists, oceanographers, and ecologists. The present report uses the term 'coastal processes' in a narrow sense, which is defined as the physical processes associated with the present-day landform evolution of the coasts made of unconsolidated materials like silt, sand, or gravel. The word 'beach processes' is the synonym. The goal of coastal processes research is, especially from the engineering view-point, to make it possible to predict topographic changes of beaches primarily caused by waves. A diagram shows the linkage among main elements in coastal processes system. The near-shore external forces are the waves and wave-induced currents, in the surf zone (including the breaking point) where the wave-current interactions usually occur. These external forces transport sediments on/offshore and/or alongshore. The existence of spatial variation of net sediment movement gives rise to the nearshore topographic changes, which in turn influence the external forces. The topography-force feedback relationship characterizes beach changes. The purpose of this report is to provide the brief introduction of recent coastal processes studies which have been conducted in Japan during the last decade, i.e., the 1970's. A textbook written by Horikawa (1978) includes some useful summaries of this research field. (Author)
Document Details
- Document Type
- Technical Report
- Publication Date
- Jun 01, 1980
- Accession Number
- ADA092798
Entities
People
- Tsuguo Sunamura
Organizations
- University of Delaware