Propagation of Weakly-Nonlinear Surface Water Waves in Regions with Varying Depth and Current.
Abstract
This report represents a study of the equations governing the propagation of weakly nonlinear waves in regions where currents exist and where the depth and current are allowed to vary. After deriving a velocity potential applicable to propagating surface waves according to the Stokes expansion, the Lagrangian governing wave motion in the propagation space is derived. A consistent perturbation scheme then leads to the equations governing the wave and current motion at each order in the Stokes series. After neglecting time dependence of the wave amplitude, parabolic equations governing the combined refraction and diffraction of Stokes waves of small amplitude are developed and used to calculate the wavefields for several representative cases illustrating the importance of nonlinear effects. The computational models are verified by comparison to laboratory data of wave amplitude for a wavefield focussed by a submerged shoal, and it is found that the nonlinear model accounts for the major discrepancies found between linear model results and the laboratory data. (Author)
Document Details
- Document Type
- Technical Report
- Publication Date
- Jul 01, 1983
- Accession Number
- ADA132593
Entities
People
- James Thornton Kirby Jr
Organizations
- University of Delaware