Modeling Wave Transformation in the Surf Zone.
Abstract
By drawing a macroscopic analogy between an idealized surf zone and a hydraulic jump, an expression for the spatial change in energy flux due to breaking is developed. Analytical solutions for wave height decay due to shoaling and breaking on a flat shelf and a plane beach are presented and the results compared with laboratory data from Horikawa and Kuo (1966). The agreement is good. Setdown/setup in mean water level, bottom friction losses, and bottom profiles of arbitrary shape are introduced next and the equations transformed for numerical solution. The model is calibrated and verified with laboratory data with good results for the wave decay, but not so favorable results for setup. A test run on a prototype scale profile containing three bar and trough systems demonstrates the model's ability to describe the shoaling, breaking, and wave reformation process. Bottom friction is found to play a negligible role in wave decay in the surf zone when compared with shoaling and breaking.
Document Details
- Document Type
- Technical Report
- Publication Date
- Sep 01, 1984
- Accession Number
- ADA146951
Entities
People
- R. A. Dalrymple
- R. G. Dean
- W. R. Dally
Organizations
- Coastal Engineering Research Center