Nonlinear Parametric Wave Model Compared with Field Data.

Abstract

Wave spectra calculated using the Parameterized Nonlinear Wave Solution developed by Le Mehaute et al. (1984) are compared with field data acquired at Leadbetter beach, Santa Barbara, California. The parameterized solution satisfies the nonlinear free surface boundary conditions to a specified degree of accuracy and is expressed in terms of a converging truncated Fourier series. The wavenumber, surface profile and wave orbital velocities are determined by the wave height and wave period at the local depth of water. Spectral components are compared between the model results and field data. Good agreement is observed for waves corresponding to Ursell numbers rangers from 25 to 75. For large Ursell numbers (strong nonlinear effects) the parameterized model underestimates the data. Keywords: Nonlinear waves; Shallow water waves; Spectral analysis. (Theses)

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Document Details

Document Type
Technical Report
Publication Date
Jun 01, 1985
Accession Number
ADA160004

Entities

People

  • J. L. B. S. De Melo

Organizations

  • Naval Postgraduate School

Tags

DTIC Thesaurus Topics

  • Accuracy
  • Boundaries
  • California
  • Deep Water
  • Electrical Solitons
  • Engineering
  • Fourier Analysis
  • Fourier Series
  • Frequency
  • Oceanography
  • Phase Velocity
  • Schools
  • Shallow Water
  • Spectra
  • Water Waves
  • Wave Propagation
  • Waves

Readers

  • Atmospheric Science / Meteorology, specifically Wind Wave Turbulence.

Technology Areas

  • Space