Comparison of Measured and Transformed Directional Wave Spectra Using Linear Refraction Model

Abstract

Deep water directional wave spectra, measured by a NDBC 3-meter buoy off Monterey Bay, are transformed to shallow water using the linear refraction model by Dobson (1967). The transformed directional spectra are compared with measured spectra using pressure guage array in shallow water at Marina and Santa Cruz. Refraction (Kr), shoaling (Ks) and Jacobian (J) transfer functions are computed. The modeling results and measured wave data at Marina are in good agreement for easterly waves at high frequencies. On the other hand, the linear refraction model gives high variable values of wave solutions at Santa Cruz. It is believed that the unrealistic wave results at Santa Cruz are associated with the complex bathymetry of Monterey Bay. The present work examines the accuracy and limitations of linear refraction model by field observations. Keywords: Theses; Ocean waves; Directional spectra; Wave refraction.

Open PDF

Document Details

Document Type
Technical Report
Publication Date
Mar 01, 1989
Accession Number
ADA208111

Entities

People

  • Mohammad A. Khalid

Organizations

  • Naval Postgraduate School

Tags

Communities of Interest

  • Energy and Power Technologies
  • Sensors

DTIC Thesaurus Topics

  • Acquisition
  • Beaches
  • Birds
  • Coastal Regions
  • Data Acquisition
  • Engineering
  • Engineers
  • Frequency
  • Geography
  • Grids
  • Measurement
  • Ocean Waves
  • Pressure Gages
  • Refraction
  • Shallow Water
  • Transfer Functions
  • Two Dimensional

Readers

  • Calculus or Mathematical Analysis
  • Coastal Oceanography
  • Computational Modeling and Simulation