The Effect of Breaking Waves on the Directional Spectrum of Waves in Water of Variable Depth in the Presence of Current

Abstract

This report details an approximate method for calculating the directional spectrum of waves encountering a current in shallow water. The wave trains in the directional spectrum are assumed to be linear and Gaussian; development of the spectrum requires that the waves also be short crested. The bathymetry is assumed to consist of straight parallel contours. The Miche breaking criterion is imposed to determine the upper limit of wave height and to establish an expression for the breaking wave elevation in terms of the ideal wave's elevation and the second time derivative of elevation. Snell's Law is used for wave refraction. Two examples are given: one for a Wallops directional spectrum encountering a shear current, and one with an upwelling current. Results are presented in graphical form.

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Document Details

Document Type
Technical Report
Publication Date
Jun 01, 1989
Accession Number
ADA210671

Entities

People

  • Chi C. Tung
  • Yong J. Cho

Organizations

  • North Carolina State University

Tags

Communities of Interest

  • Energy and Power Technologies
  • Materials and Manufacturing Processes

DTIC Thesaurus Topics

  • Army Corps Of Engineers
  • Birds
  • Civil Engineering
  • Coastal Engineering
  • Computational Science
  • Deep Water
  • Engineering
  • Engineers
  • Fluid Mechanics
  • Frequency
  • Gaussian Processes
  • Probability
  • Random Variables
  • Stochastic Processes
  • Water Waves
  • Wave Power
  • Waves

Fields of Study

  • Physics

Readers

  • Atmospheric Science / Meteorology, specifically Wind Wave Turbulence.
  • Coastal Oceanography