Potential Energy in Steep and Breaking Waves
Abstract
We find that potential energy rather than wave height is a better experimental and analytic criterion for determining when wave breaking will occur. A simple two-dimensional, periodic algorithm is developed and used to compare breaking onset criteria for energy input from (1) converging sidewalls, (2) a submerged disturbance and (3) wave focusing. Wave-breaking criteria (potential energy or the more classical peak-to-peak wave height) are a function of the rate of energy input. Large plunging waves occur for large energy input rates with a smooth transition to smaller spilling waves for lesser energy input rates. The first two kinds of energy input show similar trends in the limit as the energy input rate becomes small. The third case, wave focusing, is the subject of an ongoing investigation. The effects of wave modulation and reflection are also discussed.
Document Details
- Document Type
- Technical Report
- Publication Date
- Dec 13, 1989
- Accession Number
- ADA251102
Entities
People
- O. M. Griffin
- S. E. Ramberg
- W. W. Schultz
Organizations
- University of Michigan