Ocean Waves in SAMSON/SWADE

Abstract

The scientific objective of this project was to determine the origin and governing dynamics of the low frequency (nominally 0.01 Hz) infragravity waves which are sometimes very energetic in shallow water. Possible generation mechanisms include local nonlinear forcing of bound infragravity waves by groups of sea and swell, excitation of freely propagating edge waves in nearby surf zones, and ocean-basin-wide propagation of infragravity waves excited by large, distant storms. Important dynamical questions include what are the amounts of infragravity energy reflected by the beach face, refractively trapped during propagation across the shelf, and lost by bottom friction.

Document Details

Document Type
Technical Report
Publication Date
Jan 01, 1993
Accession Number
ADA263681

Entities

Organizations

  • Washington State University

Tags

Communities of Interest

  • Energy and Power Technologies

DTIC Thesaurus Topics

  • Demographic Cohorts
  • Dynamics
  • Excitation
  • Frequency
  • Frequency Shift
  • Friction
  • Ocean Basins
  • Ocean Waves
  • Shallow Water
  • Water
  • Waves

Readers

  • Atmospheric Science / Meteorology, specifically Wind Wave Turbulence.