Surf Beat in Coastal Waters
Abstract
As ocean waves propagate into shallow water, they exhibit increasingly strong nonlinearities. One important nonlinear effect is the emergence of low-frequency energy as a consequence of interactions between higher frequency incident wave components. The low-frequency components can dominate the inner surf zone during storm conditions. Amphibious and LOTS operations can be seriously impacted by currents, water level variations, and runup induced by surf beat. Data were obtained from the U.S. Army Engineer Waterways Experiment Station laboratory and field facilities. A theoretical formulation for the growth of low-frequency energy in shallow water is evaluated against the data sets and used to develop guidelines for predicting surf beat... . Laboratory experiments, Spectral wave transformation, Wave energy spectra, Numerical modeling, Surf beat, Wave shoaling, Spectral wave modeling, Surf zone processes, Wave transformation.
Document Details
- Document Type
- Technical Report
- Publication Date
- Aug 01, 1993
- Accession Number
- ADA269839
Entities
People
- Edward F. Thompson
- Michael J. Briggs
Organizations
- Coastal Engineering Research Center