A Simple Quasi-Three Dimensional Model of Longshore Currents over Arbitrary Profile.

Abstract

The long shore current maximum observed in the trough of a barred beach during the nearshore dynamics experiment DELILAH at Duck, North Carolina, is not predicted by present theory. The simplest longshore curren models balance cross-shore changes in the alongshore wave momentum (radiation stress) with the alongshore bottom shear stress. Waves break over the bar, reform in the trough and again break on the foreshore resulting in changes in the radiation stress, which predicts two jets, one over the bar and the other at the foreshore, which does not agree with the observed current maximum in the trough. The advection of the momentum of the longshore current by mean cross-shore currents as a source of momentum mixing is investigated. The longshore current is strongest toward the surface and decreasing to zero at the bottom. The cross-shore mean current has an onshore transport in the wave crest/trough region and an offshore transport beneath (undertow). The net interaction can induce significant lateral mixing of the alongshore momentum of the mean currents, which is shown using a simplified three- dimension model of nearshore currents to explain much of the differences with observations. (MM)

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Document Details

Document Type
Technical Report
Publication Date
Sep 01, 1995
Accession Number
ADA305173

Entities

People

  • Antonio F. Faria

Organizations

  • Naval Postgraduate School

Tags

Communities of Interest

  • Energy and Power Technologies
  • Materials and Manufacturing Processes
  • Sensors

DTIC Thesaurus Topics

  • Acquisition
  • Boundary Layer
  • Differential Equations
  • Equations
  • Measurement
  • Momentum
  • Observation
  • Offshore
  • Radiation
  • Regions
  • Research Facilities
  • Shear Stresses
  • Shores
  • Stresses
  • Three Dimensional
  • Transport Ships
  • Turbulent Mixing

Readers

  • Coastal Oceanography
  • Plasma Physics / Magnetohydrodynamics