Nearshore Wave and Circulation Modelling
Abstract
Numerical models were developed to predict the propagation and transformation of the time-dependent wave field across the nearshore zone, nearshore circulation including longshore, undertow and rip currents, and instantaneous and mean water levels including wave runup and swash on beaches. The inclusion of time-dependence permitted the study of evolving wave and current fields, including the generation of low frequency waves and shear instability of the currents. The developed two-dimensional and three-dimensional models were extensively validated by comparison to laboratory experiments conducted in this project and available field experiments. Equipment purchases and upgrades allowed the laboratory studies of breaking waves, and the associated turbulence, bottom friction, undertow, swash, runup, overtopping, and overwash in the University of Delaware's Precision Wave Tank, Directional Wave Basin, and Sand Beach Wave Tank.
Document Details
- Document Type
- Technical Report
- Publication Date
- Feb 01, 1998
- Accession Number
- ADA344193
Entities
People
- Nobuhisa Kobayashi
- Robert A. Dalrymple
Organizations
- University of Delaware