Nearshore Wave Processes
Abstract
The evolution of waves, currents, and bathymetry on a natural beach is being observed during the SandyDuck field experiment on the North Carolina coast. Pressure gages, current meters, and sonar altimeters were deployed in July 1997 on a two-dimensional grid extending 370 m from near the shoreline to about 5 m water depth and spanning 200 m along the coast. The grid is large enough to sample significant bathymetric inhomogeneities and their effects on wave evolution and circulation. Data have been acquired nearly continuously for more than 3 months (Aug - Nov 1997) and data return is greater than 97%. Significant processing is performed in near-real time, and maps of nearshore wave heights and directions, bathymetry, mean flows, and setup every 3 hours for 120 days have been produced. The spatially extensive instrument arrays will allow quantitative investigations of sea and swell, edge waves, shear waves, alongshore inhomogeneous circulation, and changing morphology.
Document Details
- Document Type
- Technical Report
- Publication Date
- Jan 15, 1999
- Accession Number
- ADA359431
Entities
People
- Steve Elgar
Organizations
- Washington State University