Temporal and Spatial Variability of Bathymetry of a Natural Beach

Abstract

The coupling between waves, wave-breaking driven circulation, and morphological evolution near the shore was investigated with field observations (eg, Duck94, SandyDuck) and model studies. Engergetics-based sediment transport models driven with observed currents were shown to predict offshore sediment transport and migration of sand bars observed during storms. The field data suggest onshore transport and bar migration observed during calm periods is related to nonlinearities in shallow water waves that produce asymmetrical near-bottom fluid accelerations.

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Document Details

Document Type
Technical Report
Publication Date
Mar 01, 2000
Accession Number
ADA374303

Entities

People

  • Steve Elgar

Organizations

  • Washington State University

Tags

Communities of Interest

  • Energy and Power Technologies
  • Materials and Manufacturing Processes
  • Sensors

DTIC Thesaurus Topics

  • Coastal Engineering
  • Engineering
  • Fluids
  • Gravity Waves
  • Migration
  • Physical Oceanography
  • Pressure Gages
  • Regions
  • Sedimentation
  • Sediments
  • Shallow Water
  • Shores
  • Students
  • Transport Ships
  • Water
  • Water Waves
  • Waves

Fields of Study

  • Environmental science

Readers

  • Coastal Oceanography