Surface Gravity Waves on the Continental Shelf and Beach
Abstract
A combination of numerical models and field experiments were used to investigate the physical process that effect surface wave properties as they propagate across the continental shelf to the beach. A spectral refraction wave model was used to study the wave blocking and refraction near the FRF pier at Duck, North Carolina, during SandyDuck. A cross-shelf transect of directional wave buoys was deployed across the North Carolina shelf during the SHOWEX experiment to observe the evolution of the frequency-directional spectrum from the shelf to the beach. A hybrid Eularian-Lagrangian wave model was developed to study the potential role of bottom friction in wave evolution across a broad, shallow shelf.
Document Details
- Document Type
- Technical Report
- Publication Date
- Feb 16, 2001
- Accession Number
- ADA387080
Entities
People
- R. T. Guza
Organizations
- Scripps Institution of Oceanography