Field Observation of Setup

Abstract

Setup is defined as the superelevation of mean water surface within the surfzone and is caused by the reduction in wave momentum shoreward of the breaking point and compensating positive pressure gradient. Data were acquired north of Scripps Canyon on a gently sloping section of beach, which was homogenous in along-shore morphology, during the Nearshore Canyon Experiment, 2004. Pressure sensors were deployed both above and below the bed. Wave heights and radiation stress (wave-induced momentum) were calculated using linear theory transfer functions. Wave heights measured using pressure sensors in the water column had a positive bias compared with the buried pressure sensors, which it is presumed due to the Bernoulli effect of flow past the orifices. Predicted setup based on numerically solving the cross-momentum equation forced with the measured radiation stresses underestimates the observed setup by 40 percent in the mean. This is consistent with previous studies.

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Document Details

Document Type
Technical Report
Publication Date
Jun 01, 2004
Accession Number
ADA424924

Entities

People

  • Sean P. Yemm

Organizations

  • Naval Postgraduate School

Tags

Communities of Interest

  • Sensors

DTIC Thesaurus Topics

  • Accuracy
  • Barometric Pressure
  • Data Analysis
  • Equations
  • Measurement
  • Momentum
  • Observation
  • Pressure Gradients
  • Pressure Measurement
  • Pressure Transducers
  • Radiation
  • Regression Analysis
  • Sea Level
  • Storm Surges
  • Transfer Functions
  • United States
  • United States Naval Academy

Readers

  • Atmospheric Science / Meteorology, specifically Wind Wave Turbulence.
  • Coastal Oceanography
  • Fluid Dynamics.