Temporal and Spatial Variations of Surf-Zone Currents and Suspended Sediment Concentration

Abstract

Temporal and spatial variations of surf-zone currents and suspended sediment concentrations were investigated at the U.S. Army Engineer Research and Development Center's Large-scale Sediment Transport Facility (LSTF). A longshore-uniform fine-sand beach, 35, alongshore, 20 m cross-shore, and 25 cm thick was placed in the facility for these experiments. Two unidirectional, long-crested irregular wave conditions were examined, one resulted in predominantly spilling breakers and one in plunging breakers. Waves and currents, and sediment concentrations were measured at 20 and 16 Hz, respectively, at various longshore and cross-shore locations and throughout the water column. Both currents and sediment concentrations exhibit great temporal and spatial variations in the surf zone. The variation patterns, however, of the longshore current, cross-shore current, and sediment concentration are substantially different. Caution should be exercised when averaging these parameters over time and space. For the two wave cases examined, the temporal variations of longshore current, including those at principal incident-wave frequencies, were relatively small across most of the surf zone. Over 70% of the variations are within approximately plus or minus 60% of the mean value. The wave motion, with a strong peak at principal incident-wave frequencies, dominated the temporal variations of cross-shore current. Temporal variations of suspended sediment concentration under the irregular waves were episodic, characterized by occasional large vales induced by suspension events or due to horizontal advection. The variance of the concentration at the peak incident-wave frequency was not significant except very near the bed.

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Document Details

Document Type
Technical Report
Publication Date
Jun 01, 2002
Accession Number
ADA458011

Entities

People

  • Bradley D. Johnson
  • Bruce A. Ebersole
  • Ernest R. Smith
  • Ping Wang

Organizations

  • University of South Florida

Tags

Communities of Interest

  • Sensors

DTIC Thesaurus Topics

  • Birds
  • Boundary Layer
  • Coastal Engineering
  • Data Acquisition
  • Data Analysis
  • Engineering
  • Engineers
  • Flow
  • Fluid Flow
  • Frequency
  • Lepidoptera
  • New York
  • Regions
  • Sedimentation
  • Sediments
  • Shores
  • Suspended Sediments

Fields of Study

  • Environmental science

Readers

  • Aerosol Science/Aerosol Physics
  • Atmospheric Science / Meteorology, specifically Wind Wave Turbulence.
  • Oceanography.

Technology Areas

  • Space
  • Space - Hall-Effect Thruster