Lagrangian Observations of Rip Currents

Abstract

A comprehensive field rip-current experiment (RCEX) was conducted from 14 April to 18 May 2007 in Sand City, California, on Monterey Bay. Lagrangian observations were made with inexpensive ($150), handheld, Differential Global Positioning Systems (DGPS) mounted on surf zone drifters. The inexpensive DGPS requires post-processing to achieve O(0.4m) position accuracy and O(0.01m/s) velocity accuracy. Thirty drifters were constructed and deployed in well-developed, rip-currents to map the circulation patterns for the first time in the field at a high spatial resolution. Drifter observations obtained during three hour periods on seven different days under varying wave and tidal conditions describe eddies with a rotational period of 4.7min, confined to the surf-zone and coupled to the rip morphology. On average, three drifters per hour exited the surf-zone. Dependent upon wave conditions, one or two eddies existed between 90m-spaced rip-channels, creating a seaward flow in the channels and shoreward flow over the shoals. Cross-shore volumetric flow rates for an alongshore transect through the eddy centers balance to a difference of less than 10% of the gross flow discharge. Velocity measurements obtained from drifter data are evaluated with velocities obtained from stationary, in-situ instruments.

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Document Details

Document Type
Technical Report
Publication Date
Sep 01, 2007
Accession Number
ADA474395

Entities

People

  • Jonathan D. Morrison

Organizations

  • Naval Postgraduate School

Tags

Communities of Interest

  • Energy and Power Technologies
  • Materials and Manufacturing Processes
  • Space

DTIC Thesaurus Topics

  • Accuracy
  • Channel Spacing
  • Coastal Engineering
  • Computer Programs
  • Coordinate Systems
  • Data Sets
  • Flow Fields
  • Flow Rate
  • Global Positioning Systems
  • Measurement
  • Observation
  • Quality Control
  • Sea Level
  • Stationary
  • Surveys
  • Underwater Acoustics
  • United States

Readers

  • Coastal Oceanography

Technology Areas

  • Space
  • Space - Hall-Effect Thruster