A Study of Dissipation of Wind-Waves by Mud as Cassino Beach, Brazil: Prediction and Inversion
Abstract
The impact of a non-rigid seafloor on the wave climate at Cassino Beach, Brazil, May-June 2005 is studied using field measurements and a numerical wavemodel. The measurements consist of wave data at four locations; rheology and mud thickness from grab samples; and an estimate of the horizontal distribution of mud based on echo-soundings. The dissipation of waves by a non-rigid bottom is represented in the wave model by treating the mud layer as a viscous fluid. Applied for 431 time periods, the model without this type of dissipation has a strong tendency to overpredict nearshore wave energy, except during a period of large storm waves. Two model variations which include this dissipation have a modest tendency to underpredict the nearshore wave energy. An inversion methodology is developed and applied to infer an alternate mud distribution which, when used with the wave model, yields the observed waveheights.
Document Details
- Document Type
- Technical Report
- Publication Date
- Jan 01, 2009
- Accession Number
- ADA495960
Entities
People
- Erick Erick Rogers
- K. Todd Holland
Organizations
- United States Naval Research Laboratory