Surface Wave Processes on the Continental Shelf and Beach
Abstract
By combining theoretical advances with numerical models and field observations, we investigate the physical processes that affect ocean surface waves on continental shelves and beaches. The transformation of wave spectra is predicted with models that include the effects of refraction, scattering by wave-wave and wave-bottom interactions, and parameterization of bottom friction, and wave breaking. Extensive field data sets were collected in ONR experiments off North Caroline (DUCK94, SandyDuck, SHOWEX), California (NCEX), and the Florida Gulf coast (SAX04/Ripples) to test these models in a range of coastal environments. New experiments were conducted during FY08 on the sandy Martha's Vineyard shelf and the muddy Louisiana shelf. Analysis techniques applied to the measurements include various inverse methods to extract directional and wavenumber properties from array cross-spectra, higher-order spectral analysis to detect nonlinear coupling, as well as standard statistical methods to determine empirical relationships between observed variables. The modeling efforts include deterministic and stochastic models that incorporate quadratic and cubic nonlinearity and wide angle diffraction effects, suitable for application to energetic wave environments with complex seafloor topography.
Document Details
- Document Type
- Technical Report
- Publication Date
- Jan 01, 2008
- Accession Number
- ADA514839
Entities
People
- Robert R. Guza
- T. T. Janssen
- Thomas H. Herbers
- W. C. O'reilly
Organizations
- Naval Postgraduate School