CROSSTEX - Wave Breaking, Boundary Layer Processes, the Resulting Sediment Transport and Beach Profile Evolution

Abstract

Develop phase/depth-resolving numerical models for bottom sediment transport and surf zone hydrodynamics. Validate these models using data measured in CROSSTEX and other field experiments. Identify the role of undertow current, steep waves and breaking wave turbulence on sediment suspension events. Develop simplified phase-resolving formulations for concentrated sediment transport, suspended load transport and its near-bed boundary conditions under breaking waves. A two-phase flow model (Hsu et al 2004; Amoudry et al. 2007) is extended to model sand transport driven by measured random wave-current forcing during CROSSTEX (Scott et al. 2007). Measured near-bed time series of flow velocities are analyzed to extract (approximately) the time series of averaged wave velocities and turbulence quantities (TKE and dissipation rate). These time series are then used to drive the two-phase flow model and to calculate and resulting sand transport from immobile sand bed to the dilute region of about 5 cm above the immobile bed. Physical experiments also provide measured suspended sand concentration in the intermediate to dilute region (volume concentration ~<15%), which can be used to identify the suspension event and to validate the numerical model. On the other hand, two-phase model results for concentrated sediment dynamics can bridge the missing information at the regime of concentration from about 15% to random-close packing (~63%), which is difficult to measure in the physical experiment.

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Document Details

Document Type
Technical Report
Publication Date
Jan 01, 2007
Accession Number
ADA514901

Entities

People

  • John H. Trowbridge
  • Tian-jian Hsu

Organizations

  • Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution

Tags

Communities of Interest

  • Materials and Manufacturing Processes

DTIC Thesaurus Topics

  • Boundaries
  • Boundary Layer
  • Coastal Engineering
  • Data Analysis
  • Engineering
  • Experimental Design
  • Flow
  • Fourier Analysis
  • Layers
  • Military Research
  • Models
  • Personal Information Managers
  • Regions
  • Sedimentation
  • Sediments
  • Transport Ships
  • Wavelet Transforms

Readers

  • Coastal Oceanography