Surface Wave Processes on the Continental Shelf and Beach
Abstract
Wind waves and swell dominate the hydrodynamic and sediment transport processes on many continental shelves and beaches, affect underwater acoustics, and play an important role in remote sensing applications. Wave prediction in coastal environments is a challenging task because waves are affected by many processes, including scattering by seafloor topography, strong nonlinear interactions, wave breaking, and friction in the bottom boundary layer. Several of these processes are poorly understood and existing wave prediction models rely on parameterizations and empirical validation to represent them. The long term goals of this research are to obtain a better understanding of the physical processes that affect ocean surface waves in the coastal environment and develop accurate wave prediction models.
Document Details
- Document Type
- Technical Report
- Publication Date
- Jan 01, 2007
- Accession Number
- ADA518769
Entities
People
- R. T. Guza
- T. T. Janssen
- Thomas H. Herbers
- William C. O’reilly
Organizations
- Naval Postgraduate School