The Integrated Ocean Prediction System (IOPS)

Abstract

Knowledge of wave and surf conditions can play a major role in planning and executing a successful amphibious assault on a targeted beach (Figure 1). The dynamic surf zone is affected by waves that may have propagated from long distances (swell) and by refraction, which causes waves to become aligned with depth contours as they approach the coast. Local wind waves and tides can also change the character and width of the surf zone. Local bathymetry (e.g. beach profiles) can change dramatically due to wave action from storms. Offshore bars can form and migrate due to seasonal changes in wave dynamics and surf conditions. Accurate predictions of surf processes are dependent on models that contain the appropriate physics, and realistic environmental inputs to these models.

Open PDF

Document Details

Document Type
Technical Report
Publication Date
Jan 01, 2002
Accession Number
ADA519437

Entities

People

  • James D. Dykes
  • James Kaihatu
  • Richard Allard
  • Y. Larry Hsu

Organizations

  • United States Naval Research Laboratory

Tags

Communities of Interest

  • Air Platforms
  • Energy and Power Technologies

DTIC Thesaurus Topics

  • Civil Engineering
  • Computer Programs
  • Databases
  • Engineering
  • Frequency
  • Geographic Regions
  • Geography
  • Graphical User Interface
  • Grids
  • Navy
  • Ocean Waves
  • Oceans
  • Shallow Water
  • Standards
  • Steady State
  • Transfer Functions
  • Water Waves

Readers

  • Computational Modeling and Simulation
  • Naval Architecture and Marine Engineering.
  • Oceanography.