Near Shore Wave and Sediment Processes

Abstract

Long-term goals are to predict the nearshore wave-induced three-dimensional velocity field and induced sediment transport over an arbitrary bottom composed of sediments ranging from mud to coarse sand given the bathymetry, bottom type and offshore wave conditions. The interrelationship of wave-induced hydrodynamic and sediment processes over the vertical and morphologic processes at the bed are measured and modeled. The primary mechanism for changes in momentum flux that drive nearshore hydrodynamics is due to the dissipation by breaking waves, the processes of which are poorly understood. Bottom boundary layer measurements are obtained to determine bottom stress and dissipation. Sediment transport is measured in response to the measured alongshore and cross-shore currents, wave orbital velocities, and turbulent stresses. The small-scale morphology, which acts as the hydraulic roughness for the mean flows and perturbs the velocity-sediment fields, is measured as a function of time to examine cross- and alongshore variations. The sediment environments range from mud to coarse grain sand.

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Document Details

Document Type
Technical Report
Publication Date
Jan 01, 2006
Accession Number
ADA523815

Entities

People

  • Edward B. Thornton
  • Timothy P. Stanton

Organizations

  • Naval Postgraduate School

Tags

Communities of Interest

  • Energy and Power Technologies
  • Materials and Manufacturing Processes

DTIC Thesaurus Topics

  • Bathymetry
  • Boundaries
  • Boundary Layer
  • Coastal Engineering
  • Computations
  • Data Sets
  • Engineering
  • Frequency
  • Layers
  • Marine Geology
  • Measurement
  • Sedimentation
  • Sediments
  • Stratified Fluids
  • Turbulence
  • Two Dimensional
  • Very Low Frequency

Fields of Study

  • Environmental science

Readers

  • Coastal Oceanography

Technology Areas

  • Space