Linking the Surf Zone and Inner Shelf: Cross-shore Transportation Mechanisms

Abstract

The long-term goals are to understand surf zone processes, in particular cross-shore exchange related to rip current systems through field observations and numerical modeling. Rip currents occur commonly on most beaches and dominate many. It is recognized that beaches with straight and parallel contours are not a stable morphologic configuration, whereas more complex beaches, which support the existence of rip current morphology, are stable and more common. The research objectives of the proposed work are two-fold. The first is associated with obtaining new observations of the cross-shore exchange between the surf zone and the inner shelf that utilize a suite of in situ and Lagrangian measurement systems. The second applies a numerical model (Delft3D) to evaluate the mechanisms responsible for the cross-shore exchange and relate the complex flow dynamics of the rip current system and its interaction with the surface wave field and bottom topography to the observations.

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Document Details

Document Type
Technical Report
Publication Date
Jan 01, 2011
Accession Number
ADA535012

Entities

People

  • Adrianus Reniers

Organizations

  • Rosenstiel School of Marine, Atmospheric, and Earth Science

Tags

DTIC Thesaurus Topics

  • Atmospheric Sciences
  • Deep Water
  • Deployment
  • Dynamics
  • Flow
  • Frequency
  • Frequency Bands
  • Materials
  • Observation
  • Particles
  • Regions
  • Remote Sensing
  • Shores
  • Stratified Fluids
  • Three Dimensional
  • Transport Ships
  • Waves

Fields of Study

  • Environmental science

Readers

  • Coastal Oceanography
  • Systems Analysis and Design