Nearshore Wave-Topography Interactions

Abstract

The long-term goal of nearshore processes research (hence our program) is to develop a predictive understanding of the fluid dynamics of a random wave field shoaling over the complicated bathymetry of a natural beach and the response of the beach to those overlying wave and current motions. Our principle focus in recent years has been to develop understanding of nearshore variability on time scales of days to years (the time scales for which predictions become useful for society). Bathymetric evolution is generally significant at these scales and behavior of the system becomes more dependent on the nature of feedback within the system than on the details of component processes. Our primary objective is to understand the link between system feedback mechanisms and system behavior.

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Document Details

Document Type
Technical Report
Publication Date
Sep 30, 1998
Accession Number
ADA535495

Entities

People

  • Robert A. Holman

Organizations

  • Oregon State University

Tags

Communities of Interest

  • Energy and Power Technologies

DTIC Thesaurus Topics

  • Abstracts
  • Atmospheric Sciences
  • Bathymetry
  • Closed Loop Systems
  • Earth Sciences
  • Feedback
  • Fluid Dynamics
  • Geography
  • High Energy
  • Information Operations
  • Interdisciplinary Science
  • Models
  • New Zealand
  • Remote Sensing
  • Research Facilities
  • Topography
  • Universities

Readers

  • Coastal Oceanography
  • Control Systems Engineering.