Observations of Waves and Currents Near the Surf Zone
Abstract
The overall goal is to understand the form and dynamics of the flows near shore. These flows are forced by waves, wind, pressure gradients, stratification, and (perhaps) Coriolis, and are strongly modified by topography. Given the forcing and topography, I would like to be able to predict the flow regime, in terms of the occurrence and strength of instabilities and rip currents, and the net effect on horizontal mixing and diffusion. The first objective is to classify the various flow conditions observed at SandyDuck in terms of some (as yet to be rigorously defined) measures of the nonlinear regime of the flow. Two complementary approaches are in terms of (1) the occurrence and strength of "rip currents" (narrow jet-like current structures extending more or less continuously from shore) and (2) the occurrence and strength of "shear waves" (instabilities associated with the alongshore flow especially along the crest of a sandbar). The next objective is to related these classifications to the forcing, in order to determine the important parameters controlling the flow. The final objective is detailed comparison and refinement of models of nearshore flow, in order to refine our understanding of the links between forcing and flow.
Document Details
- Document Type
- Technical Report
- Publication Date
- Sep 30, 1998
- Accession Number
- ADA539492
Entities
People
- Jerome A. Smith
Organizations
- Scripps Institution of Oceanography