A Beach Probing System (BPS) for Determining Surf Zone Bathymetry, Currents, and Wave Heights from Measurements Offshore
Abstract
Our goal is to investigate, using both simulated and field data, the feasibility of using offshore measurements of the surface gravity wave field to remotely sense the inshore environment (hydrography, currents, and breakers. (1) To develop a data assimilation method (BPS model) for estimating the nearshore (shoreline to nominally 500m offshore) depth and alongshore-directed current profiles using offshore infragravity wave measurements. Extend the BPS model to estimate breaker type and surf zone width by assimilating wind-wave directional data. (2) To develop a self-powered, self-recording, GPS-clock-accurate sensor package suite of three-axis current, pressure, and orientation sensors integrated into a semi-automated, near-real-time data acquisition, quality control, and analysis system for measurements of: (a) wind waves (0.04 (b) infragravity waves (0.001 - 0.04 Hz). (3) To test and evaluate the BPS model with both simulated and field (collected by the new sensor packages) data.
Document Details
- Document Type
- Technical Report
- Publication Date
- Sep 30, 1998
- Accession Number
- ADA542197
Entities
People
- Joan Oltman-shay
Organizations
- Northwest Research Associates