Nonlinear Time-Dependent Currents in the Surf Zone
Abstract
The goals of this work are to develop better understanding and predictive capability for nearshore currents forced by breaking waves in the surf zone. The major tasks to be accomplished are: (1) Couple the wave field to the evolving currents in physical-mathematical models for situations that produce alongshore currents and rip currents. As currents evolve the distribution of surface wave breaking adjusts because of the wave refraction caused by the currents. Subsequently the momentum input to the currents is altered. We will examine the influence of feedback from the currents on the wave radiation stress gradients that parameterize momentum forcing from wave breaking. (2) Examine rip current dynamics for different parameter ranges of wave height, incident wave angle, bottom friction, and beach bathymetry. (3) Investigate the influence of alongshore-topographic variability (transverse bars) on alongshore currents over plane beaches (i.e., without alongshore-parallel sandbars). (4) Simulate field conditions at Duck, N.C. using measured beach bathymetry and wave field conditions from the Delilah and Sandy Duck experiments. This best effort model will include tides, non-linear bottom friction, and coupled wave-current interactions.
Document Details
- Document Type
- Technical Report
- Publication Date
- Sep 30, 2000
- Accession Number
- ADA609981
Entities
People
- Donald Slinn
Organizations
- Florida Atlantic University