Optical Imaging of the Nearshore
Abstract
The long term goal of neashore processes research has been to develop a predictive understanding of the fluid dynamics of a random wave field shoaling over the complicated bathymetry of a natural beach, and the response of the beach to those overlying wave and current motions. Practically speaking, this occurs at two time scales. Shorter term predictions strive to model the details of a particular realization of the nearshore fluid domain and/or topography. At time scales longer than a few weeks, the nonlinearities in the system render this impossible and predictions can only be made of statistical or broader aspects of the nearshore system. Behavior at time scales of a year or longer is called Large Scale Coastal Behavior (LSCB) and the associated science is still exploratory. We continue to address the nearshore problem at both short and long time scales. At nowcast and near-term prediction time scales, we strive to develop optical remote sensing techniques to simplify acquisition of the data needed for comprehensive models of nearshore waves and currents. These data are useful in both an operational nearshore observing system capacity, but also to improve our understanding of dynamics, particularly the forcing of mean flows and intermittent rip currents. At long time scales, we wish to continue the discovery of new phenomenology that has been associated with the long time series data collections of the Argus program as well as develop a top-down modeling capability for LSCB.
Document Details
- Document Type
- Technical Report
- Publication Date
- Sep 30, 2004
- Accession Number
- ADA613020
Entities
People
- Robert A. Holman
Organizations
- Oregon State University