Swashzone Fluid Velocities

Abstract

The long-term goal is to develop and verify models for fluid and sediment processes in the swash zone. The overall objective of these projects is to improve models for fluid velocities in the swash zone. Although runup excursions and cross-shore swashzone velocities owing to random waves on a natural beach are predicted well by a model (Rbreak) based on the vertically-averaged nonlinear shallow water equations with quadratic bottom friction (Kobayashi et al. 1989, Raubenheimer et al. 1995, Raubenheimer 2002), it is not clear whether the alongshore velocities are predicted accurately. Furthermore, despite recent results that suggest alongshore sediment transport occurs primarily in the swash and outer surf zones (Bodge and Dean 1987, Kamphuis 1991, Thornton and Abdelrahman 1991), few studies have examined the importance of alongshore swashzone currents.

Open PDF

Document Details

Document Type
Technical Report
Publication Date
Sep 30, 2004
Accession Number
ADA630116

Entities

People

  • Britt Raubenheimer

Organizations

  • Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution

Tags

Communities of Interest

  • Materials and Manufacturing Processes

DTIC Thesaurus Topics

  • Equations
  • Fluids
  • Friction
  • Measurement
  • Observation
  • Offshore
  • Pressure Gages
  • Regions
  • Sea Level
  • Sea Level Rise
  • Sedimentation
  • Sediments
  • Shallow Water
  • Shores
  • Transport Ships
  • Two Dimensional
  • Water

Readers

  • Coastal Oceanography