Observations of surface wave dynamics on the inner shelf
Abstract
Short Work Statement: We will make detailed measurements of the variable wave forcing and infragravity response across the inner shelf using an array of surface-tracking & pressure (STP) moorings. By deploying a large number of relatively low-cost and high-mobility moorings, we will provide a high-resolution data set of continuous wave measurements, and resolve regional variability in the wind wave and infragravity wave field. To study the effects of variations in coastal and shelf geometry on infragravity radiation across the inner shelf and the surfzone transition region (STR), we will develop a back-ray tracing model to capture wave propagation and trapping across the shelf. Comparison of a geometrical optics model to observed variations in infragravity energy levels will provide insight into the effects of coastal and shelf geometry on regional infragravity dynamics.
Document Details
- Document Type
- DoD Grant Award
- Publication Date
- Sep 30, 2016
- Source ID
- N000141612856
Entities
People
- T. T. Janssen
Organizations
- Office of Naval Research
- United States Navy