Waves and Circulation At Steep Rocky Cliffs and Sharp Points: Observations and Modeling
Abstract
Approved for Public ReleaseProject Summary/Abstract: #Waves and Circulation At Steep Rocky Cliffs and Sharp Points: Observations and Modeling#Globally, 75% of coastlines are not accessible to Naval Special Warfare and the Marines because they are rocky, and the wave and current dynamics in their vicinity are unknown. These regions are intimidating, can have large waves, are dangerous, and arereferred to as #no-go# coasts making the US armed forces predictable. This predictability is associated with a lack of familiarity with rocky shores. Currently, Naval models do not have the capability to accurately predict waves and currents in these regions. Improved understanding of wave and current processes on rocky shores is important to Naval operations. The majority of open-coast littoral research has focused on sandy shores and over 50+ years has revolutionized our understanding of waves and currents on sandy beaches. In contrast to well-studied sandy coastlines, rocky coastlines have complex three-dimensional geometries made up of features ata range of scales, often with sharp gradients. The recently ONR-funded MURI ROXSI is studying wave and circulation dynamics on rocky shorelines focusing on low-sloped (1:50) rocky beaches on the Monterey peninsula. However, the range of rocky shoreline that has been studied is limited, and steep cliffs or sharp points have yet to be studied. The Center for Marine and Environmental Studies (CMES) at the University of the Virgin Islands (UVI) proposes to study wave and circulation dynamics on steep rocky cliffs and sharp rocky points on St. Thomas in the US Virgin Islands. This volcanically generated island has ideal field sites to study these types of rocky shorelines. The project objectives are to use field observations and models to study the physics of and validate models for wave and current processes on steep rocky cliffs and sharp points. The first objective is to perform field experiments during the Winter season (approximately 3 months) when large wave events occur using CMES#s inventory of Spotter wave buoys and Acoustic Doppler Current Meters. The first experiment will focus on steep cliffs in Winter 2024-25, and the second will focus on sharp points in Winter 2025-26. The results of the analysis of the observations will provide understanding of wave processes in these regions and enable the development of parameterizations for use in Naval wave and current models. The second technical objective is to implement a coupled wave and current model at high resolution in the region of the field experiment sites. We will test existing parameterizations developed for low-sloped rocky shorelines or test new parameterizations developed from the analysis of the field experiment observations. The outcome will be an improved understanding of the wave and current processes on rocky shorelines. UVI is an HBCU with a long history of engaging underrepresented minority (URM) students in the sciences through the Emerging Caribbean Scientists (ECS) program. Though small, UVI has the highest percentage of graduates completing Ph.D programs of any HBCU. We will recruit paid two undergraduate researchers (UR) through the physics, computer science, and other UVI departments and degree programs. The URs will workwith UVI scientists as well as ROXSI team members. They will learn about experiment design, programming, deploying, maintaining, and downloading data from instruments as well as how to perform data analysis and hypothesis testing. The URs will attend REU programs at Scripps Institution of Oceanography. Each year will have two UR working on the project. In years two and three, we will recruit a URM student to the Master#s program. The UR and MS students will have the opportunity to present at international science meetings. The end goal is to excite and entrain URM students eventually to PhD programs in physical oceanography or coastal engineering.
Document Details
- Document Type
- DoD Grant Award
- Publication Date
- Nov 09, 2024
- Source ID
- N000142412594
Entities
People
- Paul Jobsis
Organizations
- Office of Naval Research
- United States Navy
- University of the Virgin Islands