Prediction of the Low Frequency Wave Field on Open Coastal Beaches

Abstract

The scientific objectives of the study are related to gaining an understanding of the important features of the nearshore circulation field, so that quantitative predictions about the circulation field at a given site can be reliably made. Specific objectives include: 1. The assessment of the impact of specific features of wave groups on edge wave development and the prediction of the finite amplitude edge wave field resulting from a balance between the wave group forcing and dissipation mechanisms. 2. The assessment of the degree to which non-uniformities in the bottom bathymetry (both abrupt and gradual) affect the resulting low frequency wave climate. 3. The assessment of the importance of interactions between different modes of time-varying motions in the nearshore region, as well as interactions between these modes and the incident wave field. 4. To arrive at a predictive understanding of low frequency motions.

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Document Details

Document Type
Technical Report
Publication Date
Feb 07, 2005
Accession Number
ADA430095

Entities

People

  • H. T. Ozkan-haller

Organizations

  • Oregon State University

Tags

Communities of Interest

  • Energy and Power Technologies
  • Materials and Manufacturing Processes

DTIC Thesaurus Topics

  • Amplitude
  • Differential Equations
  • Dissipation
  • Energy
  • Equations
  • Frequency
  • Instability
  • Nonlinear Dynamics
  • Numbers
  • Partial Differential Equations
  • Personal Information Managers
  • Regions
  • Secondary Waves
  • Shallow Water
  • Urban Areas
  • Wave Power
  • Waves

Readers

  • Atmospheric Science / Meteorology, specifically Wind Wave Turbulence.
  • Computational Modeling and Simulation
  • Oceanography.