Dune Erosion, Mega-Cusps and Rip Currents: Modeling of Field Data
Abstract
Sand dune erosion is highly episodic occurring only when storm waves coincide with high tides generating swash that impacts the toe of the dune. Owing to the episodic nature of sand dune erosion, it is difficult to observe in nature. The removal of a structure and rip-rap sea-wall from the Stilwell Hall site located in southern Monterey Bay provided a unique opportunity to study erosion processes at an accelerated rate. A 1-D wave impact line erosion model (Larson et al., 2004) was tested against data acquired at this site between April, 2004 and April 2005. The model was optimally tuned to the data by a dimensionless coefficient that relates the impact force to the rate of recession. The coefficient values ranged from 0.7-1.3x10-3, for this field data, compared with values of 1.0-2.5x10-3 previously obtained for lab and field data. Migrating rip currents create a system of mega-cusps, which are nominally 10m in width and 200m in alongshore wavelength (Thornton, 2005). The presence of mega- cusps is hypothesized to accelerate sand dune erosion at their embayments where the beach is steeper and narrowest (Short, 1979; Shih and Komar, 1984; Revell, et al., 2002). It was determined that the highest recession occurred at the location of the rip current/mega-cusp embayment. Changes in the surf climate are of great interest to Naval Special Warfare (NSW) and U.S. Marine Corps (USMC) forces tasked with planning and executing operations in littoral areas. Naval history is replete with operations highlighting the importance of understanding and accurate prediction of nearshore dynamics. Without the ability to predict nearshore morphologic processes, providing such support is impossible.
Document Details
- Document Type
- Technical Report
- Publication Date
- Sep 01, 2006
- Accession Number
- ADA457217
Entities
People
- Thomas B. Keefer Jr.
Organizations
- Naval Postgraduate School